Good Bros Ltd
Timber Merchants & Stove Centre
Good Brothers (TM) Ltd

FAQ

Oak Flooring
Oak Flooring
Gluing
Gluing
Secret Nailing
Secret Nailing
Surface Nailing
Surface Nailing
Surface Nailing

A guide to laying your floor

Before you lay your flooring we recommend you leave it in the property for two weeks prior to laying. This is so it can acclimatise to the temperature of the room it will be fixed in, so if any movement is going to occur it does so before it is laid.

Please ensure all wet work; i.e. plastering, is done before the Oak is in the property as it is possible the wood will absorb the extra moisture.

What you are laying onto:

The method used to lay the Oak flooring depends on whether you have an issue with raising the height of your floor.

Concrete Base - Battens

If you don't, the most popular way is to fix softwood battens by screwing and plugging them to the concrete floor.

The concrete surface should be sound and completely dry, lay polythene DPM (Damp Proof Membrane) underneath the battens. This acts as a vapour barrier to prevent possible moisture entering the boards.

The recommended section of the PSE softwood battens is 25mm x 50mm. Larger sections can be used but no smaller than this. They should be set at 400mm centres to prevent the floor bouncing. Because the flooring is tongue and grooved all around, including the ends, it means you don't have to meet on a batten/joist.

Concrete Base - Gluing

If an increase in the floor level needs to be kept to a minimum, an ideal method of fixing your floor is by gluing it directly onto concrete. We can offer an Adhesive called Adheflex, which is specially designed for gluing Oak to concrete.

It comes in 310ml mastic tubes, and is laid at 150mm centres onto the concrete floor. If you decide to use Adheflex the maximum width board you should glue down is 140mm.

Regarding the quantity required, you need 1 ½ Adheflex 310ml tubes per 1m2 of floor area.

Existing floor

Hardwood Oak flooring can be laid onto existing timber floors by surface nailing or secret nailing.

Existing joists

Surface or secret nail, as below.

Under Floor Heating - Battens

We offer a re-kilning service that allows you to lay Oak flooring onto Under Floor Heating. We re-kiln the flooring to a moisture content of 6%, therefore with a combination of the acclimatising period you will have allowed, the flooring will be ready to lay. The most common way is to surface or secret nail onto the battens that have been set into the screed. See below.

Fixing Method

Secret Nailing

Depending on the length of your battens, we would recommend using either 40mm or 50mm lost head nails to fix your floor.

The boards are nailed through above the tongue at a 45&#deg; angle and punched home with a nail punch. The recommended distance between battens is 300mm. The maximum face width of flooring you should secret nail is 140mm.

Surface Nailing

Again, 40mm or 50mm lost head nails can be used and again punched under the surface with a nail punch. Alternatively, cut rose head nails can be used which sit above the surface. Nail holes can be filled or left open, depending on the look you are wishing to achieve. We recommend 2 nails per board on each batten. The recommended distance between battens is 400mm.

Expansion Gap

Whatever you are laying your floor onto, it is very important that you leave an expansion gap of 15mm around the edge of the room. This is to prevent the floor rising if the flooring expands.

To cover the gap, we recommend that you fit skirting boards over the gap or if you do not wish to remove the skirtings, you can use a 20mm x 20mm Scotia moulding which fits above the floor and against the existing skirting. This can be supplied in matching wood to your floors.

Sanding and Sealing

Our flooring comes with a planed surface, which requires sanding before the finish can be applied.

Sand your floor with either an upright floor sander or a hand operated belt sander. Sand until smooth to touch all over. If you do not have this equipment, it can be hired.

All of the knots come pre-filled*, however should there be any knots you feel require further filling, we can supply you with a resin filler. This is often a popular option as dust may gather in larger knots. Once the resin is dry, you can sand it to a finish before applying the finishing sealant.